I found the meaning of life on a beach tucked away in a small surfing town Ahangama, Sri lanka. A beach that’s shy away from being the perfect beach. A big stretch of white sandy coast, with wide shores and minimal habitat.
That’s where I found the meaning of life, as I was surfing in the Indian ocean.
After spending four hours in the swirls trying to catch some waves. I decided to catch a blue wave that I never dared to surf before. The blue water wave showed its presence way before it reached me. It was like a mountain of water growing out of the ocean floor. As soon as the wave caught up with me. I started paddling as hard as I could. But it took only 3 seconds for the big blue water wave to swallow me whole. I got caught under water for nearly a minute, powerless to control my fate with no one knowing of what’s happening to mean and feeling really alone.
I remember I survived by being calm as I realized that no matter what I wanted to do, that wave was keeping me under the water until it reached the far shore.
After being crushed by the three meter wall of a wave, I went out of the water and sat on the sand.
Sitting there, appreciating every breath I’m taking. I realized that a couple of minutes ago I could’ve been dead, and this moment would’ve not existed. Under the water I was breathless and scared. What kept me calm was me admiring the beauty of the wave, that’s capturing me hostage. How such a powerful force of nature is taking full control over my fate. Which seconds ago I thought I was gonna be in-control.
We can either sit on the shore and admire it, swim in it, dive deep into it, or trust it with our fate and use its power to surf (live). I chose the last one because in the rough waves of life that’s where I felt most alive.
So be calm and live on…
In these stories, our Adventure Designers dive deep into their adventures and memories from exploring the world
This site is owned by WithGroup OÜ based in Tallinn, Estonia. Registry code 14668078. VAT number EE102453856. Copyright©2024, All Rights Reserved.
